Day 40: Triumph and Tragedy

Question: When Pittsburgh builds a new road, why is it given a name that's already in use? For example, there's an Old William Penn Parkway and, half a mile away, a New William Penn Parkway. They don't necessarily begin or end at the same place. Are the name options really that limited? I know William Penn is a pretty big guy in this state's history, but I'm sure even he would get a little confused (although honored) by the redundancy. Please offer any clarification...I'd love to hear it!

We pushed 80 miles east today to visit the Allegheny Portage Railroad NHS. Its 36 miles of track actually were made up of 10 inclines and 11 level sections; train cars were pulled along the flat sections and then hooked up to steam engines at the top of each grade. Initially they were pulled up by mile-long sections of hemp rope, until three-inch steel cable was invented and made for a much safer operation. The railroad hauled canal boats, wagons, animals, goods and passengers between two important canals to create an east-west corridor for westward expansion. It ran for 20 years, 1834-1854, until steam locomotives had reached a point in their development to pull a load up a graded track with no stops or offloading/reloading. The Allegheny Portage RR reduced travel time between Philadelphia and Pittsburgh from three weeks to five days. And it included the world's first railroad tunnel, which was dug out by hand.

We hiked down and back up Incline 6, just to get a feel for the space and the steepness of the grade. It wasn't quite as steep as the old Manitou Incline in C.Springs, but we still felt the exertion of our hike. We'd brought our bikes, hoping to get in a ride and see the tunnel, but the temps got too hot too fast. As it was, the truck's A/C felt so good after our tramping around.

On the way back to north Pittsburgh, we visited the Johnstown Flood Memorial NHS. Considered the worst inland flood in the nation's history, the 1889 flood wiped out entire towns before blasting through the city of Johnstown, killing more than 2,200 people (many hundreds more were probably killed but never found). The destruction was beyond imagining. We did our best to help the girls process at an appropriate level and not face certain nightmares. But it's hard to not be upset by the stories, especially to learn that it was more than a natural disaster...that greed and self-centeredness carried much of the blame. For that lesson alone, it's a place worth visiting.

Pulleys and gears operated by mounted steam engines powered the Allegheny Portage RR.

The level section above Incline 6 (below)

Exhibit in the Visitor's Center

This farmhouse dates back to the flood. Its owner tried to relieve the pressure on the dam during the 1889 once-in-a-century storm; his efforts were in vain. In the background are the remains of the earthen dam.

Day 39: Well, Hello, George!

We had our first encounter with George Washington today, visiting Fort Necessity in southwestern Pennsylvania, site of his first military skirmish in 1754. Even though he suffered a technical defeat at Fort Necessity (it was his one and only surrender in all his military years), he was on the winning side of the war; he was a Colonel in the British army and commanded a troop of militia from the Virginia Colony. His engagements there were the start of the French and Indian War and ultimately lead to the American Revolution: The French were forced out of power in North America; then taxes were raised on Colonists to help rebuild British coffers following the expensive war; the War of Independence was just around the corner.

Years after the French and Indian War, Washington bought a piece of land overlooking the site of Ft. Necessity (it was a small stockade, far from a grand fort such as Booneborough, and had been burned following his surrender). His intention was not only to remember the lessons learned there, but also to establish a waystation on the newly concieved National Road, of which he was a leading force (though he never saw it completed). I had no idea that one of the last original sections of this first "super-highway" lies near Greencastle, where I was in school. Most of the old road is now US 40; the original roadbed is paved over and much wider, but many of its way stations, toll houses and bridges are still around. The road, which opened up the west, was built to encourage and accommodate the large numbers of people moving to the frontier. Washington believed that if the country didn't provide such a road, settlers would go west with someone else's help and perhaps lay their loyalties elsewhere. The road's approval process was long and arduous, taking many years and compromises. When completed, it had been cut through deep forests and into and over various terrain from Cumberland, Md., to the middle of Illinois. More than 200,000 people traveled the 90-mile road annually over a 40 year period, beginning around 1812 and not tapering off until the railroad arrived in 1853.

We could prattle on about the interesting history and sites in this region...the Whiskey rebellion, which was the first test of federal authority under the new Constitution; Friendship Hill, home of Albert Gallatin, 13-year Secretary of the Treasury under Jefferson and Madison who arranged funding for the Louisiana purchase and the Lewis and Clark expedition, and negotiated the financing for the National Road; Fallingwater, famous home designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. And on top of all that, the area is incredibly beautiful...rolling hills leading up into what's called the Laurel Highlands.

Our final stop of the day shouldn't be lumped with the others: it was the Flight 93 Memorial near Shanksville. The permanent memorial is under construction, with phase one to be dedicated this year on the 10th anniversary of the crash; completion is scheduled for 2014. The temporary memorial, basically an overlook of the crash site and a visitor center that's in a nearby farm shed (which served as headquarters for the hundreds of people investigating in the days and weeks following the attack), was very moving. Our day began with our nation's first hero and ended with some of its most recent--the passengers and crew of Flight 93, who attempted to regain control of the hijacked aircraft, ultimately preventing it from hitting the intended target, the Capitol building.

British and French militia with the reconstructed Ft. Necessity in the background

Mt. Washington Tavern, wayside station for the National Road, overlooks Ft. Necessity

A small Conestogas wagon that traveled the Nat'l Rd

Flt 93 Memorial; incomplete overlook walls at left, crash site beyond them, center

Memorial offerings at the construction fence

Day 38: Cut Down and Cut Through

We've surpassed 5,000 miles on our trip! We're still pinching ourselves, trying to appreciate every moment and encounter. This morning we enjoyed a refresher on our old friends Lewis and Clark, listening to another A&E biography audiocast. We were amused to hear a diary entry made by Lewis upon viewing the snow-capped Rockies for the first time: "I felt a secret pleasure, but when I reflected on the difficulties which this snowy barrier would throw in my way, it counterbalanced my joy." We believe those stiff words are a paraphrase of his initial reaction, which was probably "Holy @#*!" Okay, on to the more mature parts of our day!

We missed Ohio so much, we decided to head back today. Actually, we didn't want to bypass a couple national park sites in the northeastern corner of the state; and we're so glad we collected them. The first was the home of James Garfield, our 20th president, in the lakeside town of Mentor. He'd been inaugurated less than four months when he was fatally shot on July 2, 1881, by a political fanatic. He lingered for 10 weeks, enduring dirty fingers and instruments probing his wound for the bullet, before finally dying September 19. Had he lived, his presidency had the potential to be one of the greatest, as he was an incredibly gifted man in many aspects of leadership. In his 49 years, he had put himself through college (his family was poor; he was the last president to be born in a log cabin), taught himself the fundamentals of law and passed the Ohio bar, served as an inspiring minister and later a college president, attained the rank of Brigadier General during the Civil War, and was elected to the House of Representatives, US Senate and finally the Presidency. Additionally, he was an adored family man. Along with his wife and five children, he shared the family home with his doting mother (she outlived him by seven years and was the first mother ever to witness a son's inauguration) and his father-in-law. Whew!

Stan and I believe John Stevens would have loved this man; Garfield was a true scholar who packed a lot of reading into his very busy work days, which often lasted over 18 hours. His love of books resulted in a library of more than 5,000. And his family and faith were very important to him. He also was incredibly tough on himself, demanding absolute perfection in whatever he set out to accomplish. He was fluent in German and French and often read in them, as well as in Latin and Greek. And when he did have time to relax, there was no place he'd rather be than with his family in their home in Mentor, Ohio. As with the other presidential sites we've visited, our learning curve here was quite steep. We'd known so little about this man and now have a better understanding of the country's loss when his term was cut short.

The next site was about a thing--water--rather than a person. Cuyahoga Valley National Park was formed by glaciers and, later, the Cuyahoga River. The name is the Anglicized pronunciation of the American Indian word for "crooked." The river valley was a major trade route that required only a brief portage of goods between Lake Erie and the Ohio River. In 1827, the Ohio & Erie Canal opened, creating the final water link. (The teenaged James Garfield worked for a few months as a tow-path boy, guiding mules who pulled the canal boats laden with goods). The tow path is now a fantastic hiking and biking trail; unfortunately, it was closed today due to severe flash floods that hit overnight, washing out a few sections of the path. We had a great time anyway, visiting a couple of the park's visitor centers and learning more about the complex canal system that drove the economic boom in this part of the country in the 1800s. Our favorite stop was at the Brandywine Falls, an incredible stack of cliffs over which water tumbles into basins below. The park has a walkway system that takes you from a top-side overlook of the falls to the very bottom of the cascade. It is so beautiful. We look forward to a future visit to this amazing place; we now know to set aside a lot of time for bike rides and exploration.

On the drive home, we made a quick swing through the campus of Grove City College, just north of where we're camped. Quite a few friends and acquaintances have attended there, and we now can understand their love of its campus. Kelsey thought it was beautiful. Who knows...we may become very familiar with this area in another 10 years!

Garfield's study, as it was when he died, with the exception of the inscribed mantle. He was tall, 6'2", and loved to drape his legs over the side of the upholstered chair--his favorite--while reading.

This elaborate windmill supplied the house's indoor plumbing system, a wonderful improvement made to the home in the late 1870s.

side view, showing the house with its many additions (back wing and 3rd floor added after his death)

Brandywine Falls

Stan's obsession with wood cutting was fed by this Cuyahoga Valley Visitor Center display, showing how one log of hardwood can be cut with little-to-nothing wasted. :-)

Day 37: The Great Unknown

Today we ventured farther northeast in the country than we've ever been (at least in a car...airline layovers don't count, do they?). We're in new waters, which means a bit more navigating is required of me. I'm so fortunate to have the benefiit of the truck's navigation system, although it doesn't help with issues such as height clearance and turning radius. We could have used a bit more of that info regarding our new campground. The tilt on the trailer as Stan pulled it into place was pretty scary. He's told me I'll need to be elsewhere when he pulls out of our site on Sunday...my freaking out doesn't help him maintain his cool and calm approach to all things "Teensie."  :-/

We stopped for a picnic lunch at an Ohio rest area about 60 miles west of West Virginia, where we rendezvoused with the Israel family, our good friends from home. Mark and the kids also brought a picnic, and we enjoyed hanging out for a while, letting the kids burn off some energy and have a blast in their mini reunion. (We missed you so much, Sondra!) The Israels are nearing their official departure on a one-year trip around the country in an RV. Guess we're not the only ones with enough loose screws, er, um, gumption to tackle this type of adventure.

We were in West Virginia for about 12 miles on our way to southwestern Pennsylvania, long enough for us to sing through John Denver's "Country Roads" about four times...you know the song..."Almost heaven, West Virginia. Blue Ridge Mountains, Shenandoah River..." The truck pulled us up and down an unending line of curvy hills, many of them quite steep, especially around Wheeling, WV. She didn't seem to mind one bit, although we'll appreciate the beautiful Alleghenies more these next few days while the trailer is parked here in the Portersville campground.

We really enjoyed a longer day in the car; it gave the kids a chance to watch a movie and Stan and me the opportunity to share a few tears and lots of great conversation about my dad, who died four years ago today. This trip is partially in his honor and is a reflection of our intention to have no regrets, to plan for the future while living in the present, and to invest in our family by making incredible memories together. Dad's sudden death caught us all off guard, especially him. I think he'd be thrilled about this adventure and would probably have joined us along the way. He and my mom instilled in me (and my brother) a love of travel; it's alive and well, and my dad feels close by when I'm living some of his dreams. I love you, Dad.

 

Precious memory: Dad and Kelsey during our springbreak trip to Florida four years ago

Day 36: Flying High

We had no idea of the scope of Dayton's connection to all things aviation. We knew the Wright brothers were locals and that they'd been honored in the naming of a big Air Force base in the area. But that doesn't begin to paint the picture!

The Wright brothers' printing shop and one of their bicycle shops have been incorporated into an excellent national park site. In the visitor center, we learned that they were never educated as engineers or in the scietific method, and yet they maintained a meticulous process of documenting their development of a flying machine. Not only were they highly intelligent, they also were incredibly dedicated and driven in their commitment to breaking the mystery of flight. There were great hands-on exhibits that helped all four of us better understand the concepts of drag, lift, yaw and other crucial elements of flying. We also learned that Dayton has an extensive history of inventors besides the Wrights...in the late 1800s, the city had more patents per capita than any other in the country. Fertile ground for the Wrights.

On our way to the National Museum of the U.S.Air Force on the Wright-Patterson base, we stopped at the Wright Brothers Memorial, erected in 1940, overlooking the field on which they achieved controlled flight (as opposed to the gliding success in Kitty Hawk) in 1905 and then perfected their powered flight machines. It's amazing to consider it as the world's first airport.

The Air Force museum stunned us; wish we'd had a lot more time to better explore the amazing collection of planes from every era of military use. Some have dramatic and sad stories, while others have virtually no history, being prototypes or terminated programs. We saw the plane that dropped the bomb on Nagasaki, many bombers that saw critical tours in all the wars, and an enormous C-124 cargo plane that seemed as large as a football field. Perhaps the most memorable of all were the presidential planes. The collection includes Kennedy's Air Force One, which carried his body back to Washington and in which Lyndon Johnson was sworn into office; Truman's "Independence," in which he flew to Wake Island for a high-stakes meeting with Gen. MacArthur; and Eisenhower's "Columbine 3." Interestingly, Kennedy was the first President to not bestow a personal name on the main aircraft in his fleet.

We ended our time at Wright-Patt. with an IMAX film; it featured four individuals from various military branches who participated in rescue efforts in Haiti following the earthquake. Its title, "Rescue," was a bit confusing for Kendall...she asked if Penny and Madame Medusa were going to be in it (from Disney's "The Rescuers")!  It was a long day, but we didn't want to waste our chance to see these important places. Tomorrow, western Pennsylvania.

In the cockpit of a fighter jet

FDR's plane

A plane used by Reagan, Carter, Ford, Nixon and Johnson (and Stan?!) for domestic trips.

Truman's "The Independence"

Day 35: Shifting Gears

It's the end of our fifth week on the road, and we're having the time of our lives! We observed a true Sabbath today, giving ourselves a day of rest (or at least a total change of pace). We connected with a Westmont friend and his family, Jason, Deborah and their kids, and attended church with them here in Lebanon. We've made this comment before...this roadtrip has made it possible to rekindle longtime friendships, and we're grateful for each opportunity. We've also felt the blessing of some phone calls from Colorado friends this afternoon.

The heat and humidity were high this afternoon and, thanks to it being a Sunday which means campground turnover, we had the pool almost entirely to ourselves. The laundry room is nearby, and so we were able to cool off and tackle a mountain of dirty clothes. The dryer wasn't the strongest, plus it has to contend with the already high moisture content in the air, so our laundry wasn't completely dry after nearly $4 in quarters. The inside of our camper now looks like a clotheslines run amuck...clothes, sheets and towels hung on every available surface! Kendall loves it and has found all sorts of imaginary cottages--her term!--in which to play.

The girls had some much-needed naps this afternoon, and then Stan grilled for us--steak and corn on the cob. The girls and I love watching him devour the corn; he's like an old-fashioned typewriter on high speed. Tomorrow we'll visit the Wright Brothers historical sites in Dayton, as well as the U.S. Air Force museum on the Wright-Patterson base. (Thanks for the tip, Mrs. Erickson!)

Laundry central

Day 34: Land of the Free, Home of the Brave

We added another President to our "bag" this morning: William Howard Taft, our 27th President, was raised in Cincinnati, and his childhood home is now a national park site. An accomplished attorney, he also served as a judge in the Ohio Superior Court, U.S. Attorney General, U.S. Circuit Court judge, First Governor of the Phillipines, U.S. Secretary of War, Professor of Constitutional Law at Yale University and, for the last 10 years of his life, Chief Justice of the Supreme Court. He's the only man to have held the two most powerful positions in the U.S. government: President and Chief Justice. As one biographer put it, "Taft worshipped the law; no understanding of him is possible without appreciation of the fact." Unfortunately, I think most people remember him for his enormous size and the story about the bathtub installed for him in the White House in which four men could sit simultaneously. His many years of service to our country attest to the fact that he was so much more than his physical stature.

In addition to his professional credits, Taft was quite an accomplished athlete, especially in his younger years, and was pursued by at least one professional baseball team. He was the first President to throw the opening pitch for baseball season. And a sign of the times, his was the last family to have a cow in residence at the White House!

That was the last funny thing we encountered today, as we spent the afternoon at the Freedom Center and Underground Railroad Museum. It sits on the edge of the Ohio River (Ohio was a free state while Kentucky, on the opposite bank, was a slave state) in the heart of downtown Cincinnati, which was called the Underground Railroad's Grand Central Station due to the high number of escaping slaves who passed through the city. The museum opened in 2004 and is one of the most progressive and interactive places we've yet seen. An itouch (an iphone minus the calling capability) audio tour is included with the admission, and it guided us in and around the many exhibits depicting the history of slavery. A central piece in the three-level facility is a 20-foot tall "slave pen," recovered in 1998 from a farm in Kentucky; it had been incorporated into the larger structure of a tobacco barn, preserving it and its artifacts which date back to the 1700s. Also called a slave jail, such buildings were used to hold slaves who were rounded up prior to their delivery to Natchez, Mississippi, where they were "retraded." Upwards of 75 people at a time were crowded into this particular building, men on the upper floor where they were chained to the beams, and women and children on the ground floor where they performed duties to support the farm until their departure. Their journey south was a barefooted, 750-mile march through horrible conditions with little food or water. Seeing this piece of brutal history reinforced to us the reason so many slaves risked everything--their lives as well as those of loved ones left behind--to try and reach freedom. It's believed that upwards of 30,000 slaves passed through Cincinnati in that effort.

Our four hours in the Freedom Center flew by, and we wished for another day to fully explore all it has to offer. We were lucky to get there when we did; our parking space cost us $2.50 at 1 pm, and when we left at 5, the price had gone up to $17...the Reds are hosting the Cardinals tonight at Great American Ballpark, which is right across the street from the museum. :-)

Taft's childhood home...no longer a neighborhood of homes, it's across the street from a large hospital, and a juvenile court building is directly behind it.

New Taft fans

In the Freedom Center with the itouch audio tour

2-story "slave pen" structure