Day 165: Over and out

Happy Thanksgiving! Our day was the perfect end to an incredible trip. We enjoyed the Macy's parade while preparing the turkey, etc. Then it was play, play, play...with wonderful friends from home, the Israels. It was quite surreal being in Williamsburg with them and my mom; we kept looking out the window for Pikes Peak.

Mom flies home tomorrow, leaving us to the fun of packing up, hooking up, and pointing the truck westward. If all goes well, we'll reach the Springs on Tuesday. This evening we're thankful for so many things...family, friends, our heritage, this incredible country, the sacrifice of our forefathers, the safety we've had on the roads, a secure job awaiting us at home. Our tummies are stuffed, and our hearts are full.

Day 164: Against All Odds

Our explorations today took us from the first British footsteps on America's soil to the defeat of the British at Yorktown, ending their claim on these lands. In Jamestown, the first permanent English settlement, we wandered through the fort, rebuilt on the foundations first laid in 1607. The "New Towne," just feet away, was home to hundreds of colonists just a few years later. Essentially abandoned to the elements in 1699, when the seat of government moved to Williamsburg, the town site all but disappeared. In the early 20th century, its significance as a national treasure prompted efforts to preserve the few foundations and other signs that remained. But the fort was believed lost, swept away by a supposed change in the course of the James River.

A William & Mary professor didn't buy the theory, and in the 1990s, he and a team of fellow archeologists began digging in an area to the north of New Towne. The fort's footprint was found, all but a corner of it still on land. Its rebuilt palisade now surrounds statues of John Smith, Virginia's first governor, and Pocahontas, the kidnapped Indian princess who brokered peace between her nation and the English settlers by marrying one of them, John Rolfe. Sadly, she died in London of fever, having accompanied her husband back to his homeland on a business mission: they sought large-scale buyers for their crop: a new kind of tobacco.

Rolfe returned to America alone, but his efforts in England succeeded in changing the course of our country. Prior to tobacco, and specifically Rolfe's variety, colonists had failed to develop a profitable venture that could justify the colony's existence and ongoing costs to its backers. Tobacco not only exploded into a cash crop, it became the backbone of Virginia's economy and ensured the survival of not only Jamestown but also hundreds of new colonies.

One hundred and seventy years later, British survival in the colonies was again under threat, this time by the patriots' cause of liberty. But little credence was given to the rebels' chances at besting the largest military force in the world. After all, General George Washington was pitting an untrained army of farmers and shopkeepers against career soldiers. The tide of war shifted back and forth between the two for many years and wasn't definitively turned until France joined forces with the united colonies. And the French naval blockade of Chesapeake Bay, in October 1781, and the resulting sea battle with the British Navy, was the nail in the coffin, so to speak, of Britain's hold.

Washington had used France's assistance to set a trap for General Cornwallis, who was holed up in Yorktown, just 20 miles from Williamsburg. When Cornwallis realized his ships weren't going to reach him, thanks to France's fleet, he withstood days of artillery bombardment from Washington and French troops under the command of the 22-year-old Marquis de Lafayette. On October 19, 1781, Cornwallis negotiated terms of surrender, effectively ending the Revolutionary War (although its official end was marked by the signing of the Treaty of Paris two years later). When the official ceremonies were administered, Cornwallis claimed illness and sent his sword of surrender by proxy. Not the noble course, in our humble opinion.

The girls finished up their final junior ranger programs today, the last of the trip. Ending our learning curve in Yorktown was the perfect conclusion to nearly six months of incredible experiences. Tomorrow's entry, Thanksgiving (and my last one!), will be the exclamation point.

Photos:
(1-3) Jamestown's fort, at the center of which is a statue of John Smith. Behind him is one of many active archeological dig sites.
(4) Pocahontas' true story is so much better than the Disney movie.
(5) Learning about Jamestown's "New Town," whose foundations are visible in the background.
(6) One of the early industries was glass blowing, a tradition carried on by modern craftsment at the Jamestown Glassblower Shop.
(7) George Washington used this very tent in the Battle of Yorktown. It was preserved by generations of his family.
(8) A one-quarter model of one of the ships in the French fleet that attacked the British outside the Chesapeake Bay, October 1781.
(9) Kendall was sworn in as a Junior Ranger in front of the Lafayette cannon; it took a direct hit (hadn't deflected the shot on the curve of the barrel--an incredibly rare phenonmenon) at Yorktown and has a sizeable dent to prove it.
(10) The Moore house, site of the negotiations for Cornwallis' surrender.

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Day 163: Fit for a Queen

We rubbed shoulders with royalty today (indirectly), riding in the same carriage in which Queen Elizabeth toured Colonial Williamsburg in 1957, driven by horses that pulled her carriage during her more recent visit in 2007. The horses, Captain and Ranger, were quite humble about their brush with fame. They pulled us around the restored town for 20 minutes, and needless to say, our horse-crazed girls were beyond thrilled. Thanks for the treat, Granny!

Our second day in Colonial Williamsburg was wonderful...tours of some of the significant homes, prowling in the quaint shops, eating Welsh Rarebit and Brunswick Stew in historic Chownings Tavern. As has happened so often on this trip, we encountered quite a few connections and overlaps with other places and faces. Peyton Randolph, considered one of the founding fathers (who more than likely would have been our first President had he not died of a stroke just prior to the Revolutionary War), was married to the sister of Benjamin Harrison, a signer of the Declaration of Independence. This Harrison was father to William Henry Harrison, our 9th President, and great-grandfather to Benjamin Harrison, 23rd President, whose home we visited in Indianapolis. Another C.W. resident was Wythe (pronounced "with"), whom Jefferson considered to be his second father. Jefferson was his pupil, and Wythe's patronage of the classics (especially Greek and Roman philosophers and scientists) had a huge influence on Jefferson's own worldview. Wythe's influence is evident in the Declaration and other documents written by Jefferson.

The girls spent some time in the stocks (pic 1)...a very effective form of a "time out." And our day ended with a rousing, patriot parade of fife and drums (pic 9). They marched from the old Capitol (in which the House of Burgesses met) to the long parkland in front of the Governor's Palace. The lessons of Colonial Williamsburg are delivered in such engaging and creative ways; we'll not soon forget the bravery of so many in this place in the 1770s.

Photos:
(2) Townsfolk discussing the latest taxes
(3) The Governor's Palace, so named because of its opulence. The home of the King-appointed governor was over-the-top in its luxuries...all requested by the governor and paid for by the House of Burgesses (thanks to tax revenues).
(4-5) Captain and Ranger pulling our special carriage. We hope Queen Elizabeth enjoyed it as much as we did!
(6) The girls writing on slates in the slave quarters of the Randolph home.
(7) Colonial Williamsburg is receiving its Christmas decorations...all real greens, fruits and nuts. Quite beautiful, and each one unique.
(8) Looking across part of the Palace Green toward the Wythe home.

Day 162: Looking Back

We stepped back in time today, traveling to 1775 in Colonial Williamsburg. The town of 2,000 residents was tense as the discussion between patriots and loyalists escalated into arguments and even accusations of treason. The restored town contains many structures that date to the 17th century, and actors in period costume help to set the scene for what life was like prior to the Revolutionary War. We saw where Thomas Jefferson served as a member of the House of Burgesses, Virginia's precursor to a representative government. Yet only men who were established landowners could vote; the process was a far cry from being truly representational, and the House could be dissolved at any time by the king-appointed governor.

In a half day, we covered perhaps a quarter of the town, so we plan to return to tomorrow and take in as much as our brains and feet will allow. There is so much to do and see, from touring historic structures in which we learn about the daily customs and life, to witnessing the many mini-dramas performed by actors that explain the undercurrents of the time.

Colonial Williamsburg is immediately adjacent to the campus of William & Mary, and Mom took us on a ramble down her memory lane, pointing out dorms, lecture halls and even the practice area for her field hockey. Her sorority sister Marjorie joined us for the day; our time with her has been wonderful. She has a fantastic knowledge of the campus and the restored town, and her insights added so much to our fun!

Photos:
(1) Marjorie and Mom in front of their sorority house
(2) Exploring Crim Dell on W&M's campus
(3) Crim Dell, a Japanese-inspired bridge, is one of the prettiest spots on campus.
(4-5) The beautiful Wren building, the heart of campus (and inside it, below)
(6) In Colonial Williamsburg, we toured a coffee shop and sampled hot chocolate...very rich, with hints of cinnamon and nutmeg.
(7) Kendall's verdict on the chocolate. The rest of us loved it!
(8-10) Some of our views in the restored town

Day 161: An English Foothold

In 1607, Jamestowne colony was established in coastal Virginia and succeeded where Sir Walter Raleigh's colony on Roanoke had failed, becoming the first permanent English settlement in America. The first two years were filled with incredible hardship, including starvation, attacks from once-friendly Indians, and lack of the skillsets necessary to be self-reliant. But while they ultimately maintained a foothold in the New World, the cost to the native population was beyond comprehension. When the English landed in 1607, the region's Powhatan people were estimated to number 20,000. By 1699, their number was 600. Conversely, the English, who began with a colony of 104, had a total population of more than 60,000 by the end of the century.

Another startling number for us...the initial 104 colonists and their crew had a westward sail to America that was 144 days in length. We've now been gone 161 days...living in complete (if transitory) comfort, with food readily available, clothing in plentiful supply, and a stable government protecting us. The fortitude of the Jamestowne colonists, who were part of a business venture as opposed to the religiously motivated Pilgrims of Plimouth Colony to the north, was incredible. (The Plimouth operation also had the benefit of a broad range of skills, having been recruited with a plan as to tasks necessary to sustain the venture.) The men hired by the Virginia Company (the financial backers who funded the colony as an investment) set off on an adventure into the unknown, with a minimum of supplies or preparation. Most of them probably said a "forever" goodbye to loved ones, believing they'd never see each other again. We're so glad to be returning to our home in just a few days; the perspective of Jamestowne makes the anticipation even sweeter.

After a wonderful worship service at Williamsburg Presbyterian, we had a fantastic meal at the Kings Arms Tavern (pic 1) in the restored, colonial part of the city. What a treat! We were with my mom's college pal, Marjorie. She used to work as an interpretter at Jamestowne Settlement, the living history museum adjacent to the authentic Jamestowne site. Marjorie gave us a personal tour of the Settlement. And as if that didn't guarantee our enjoyment of it, we were really blown away by the museum itself...wonderful information presented in creative, engaging exhibits. We really preferred it to Plimouth Plantation, whose story has many similarities to that of Jamestowne.

Photos:
(2) Marjorie taught the girls how to remove fur from animal skins using shells.
(3) On the replica Goodspeed, with the Susan Constant in the background.

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Day 160: The Beginning of the End

Petersburg was the final defense for Richmond, heart of the Confederacy. When the Union laid siege to the town, which lies just a few miles to the south of Richmond, Robert E. Lee and Jefferson Davis knew their chances of keeping the South alive were slim to none. But they held on, Lee waging a tough fight in various locations.

Union troops held the city in a vice for nearly nine months; the strategy was an alternative to the costly frontal attacks waged upon Richmond in the months prior to the summer of 1864. Thousands of Union soldiers lost their lives attacking an enemy that was deeply entrenched. General Grant reflected upon those orders as some of the most regretted of his career. He and his officers decided that the better course was to cut the supplies to Richmond, beating it in a backdoor move, so to speak. Its main rail artery came from Petersburg, which itself had five lines coming into it. Three of those had already been taken by that summer, but Grant intended to get the final ones...thus, the siege of Petersburg.

It was not an all-out Union heyday; in fact, the Confederates enjoyed many minor victories, often due to poor Union leadership and organization at the ground level. But ultimately, Petersburg fell, and Richmond with it. When the inevitable was acknowledged by Lee, he sent word to Confederate President Davis that Richmond be evacuated, and all military stores be destroyed ahead of Union occupation. Days later, the Confederacy was dissolved in a peaceful surrender at Appomattox Court House. A fact we hadn't known before is that Lincoln spent two of the last three weeks of his life just outside of Petersburg, meeting with Grant to direct the final moves of the war. Photos taken of Lincoln, Grant and Sherman meeting together in the Union headquarters have a chilling effect when looked upon with the knowledge of Lincoln's assassination just six days following the surrender.

Now that we've come to the end of our Civil War journey, we find ourselves in awe that the country found a way back from the brink of total self-annihilation, and that our 50 states have formed a united core. There is still much to be overcome in the south; in many ways, it has never recovered from its wounds. We're very grateful for the national parks that have helped us grasp the full dimensions of the Civil War...our understanding of its complexities and raw tragedy will be a lasting souvenir from our travels.

Photos:
(1) an example of the earthworks built during the siege of Petersburg
(2) The original path of a railroad track within the Petersburg Battlefield Park has been turned into a wonderful hiking trail. At the trailhead is a memorial to the many African-American soldiers who fought valiantly and gave their lives in the battle.
(3) Kendall chose a fast method for cooling off after the hike.
(4) One of the more well-known incidents in the Battle of Petersburg is known as the Crater; a tunnel was dug from the Union line more than 500 feet to the walls of a Confederate fort. The plan for breaking the Rebel line was hatched by a regiment of Pennsylvania coalminers. They completed the tunnel in just 35 days, keeping its location secret from the prying eyes of Confederate scouts and spies. The explosion achieved by 4 tons of black powder, packed into the tunnel, had the expected result--blowing the fort to smithereens and killing or maiming more then 250 men. But a lack of solid leadership and communication among Union troops led to a disastrous follow-up, in which they surged directly into the crater rather than around it; like fish in a barrel, they were slaughtered in a counter-offensive, fired upon from the crater's ridges by Confederate reenforcements.
(5) the entrance to the tunnel, above, and the crater

Day 159: Work in Progress

James Madison, our fourth President, may have been the smallest of our founding fathers; he was 5'4" and less than 100 pounds. But his weight in the shaping of our Constitution, and therefore our country, is enormous. In the couple of years following the Revolutionary War, it became evident to him and many other leaders in the Continental Congress that the United States would not long survive under the Articles of Confederation. The document was not strong enough to shape and bind the states together. He spent months shut up in his Montpelier library, studying various forms of self-government in history, emerging with a set of principles and ideas that came to form the backbone of the Constitution. Ten of his twelve main points became the Bill of Rights, and his propositions of limited yet strong federal government, with three branches of power that checked each other, are the bedrock of our system.

This small man may not have commanded a room as well as George Washington, but his philosophical and intellectual impact can't be measured. And his wife, Dolley, was revered in Washington, D.C. as a consumate hostess, at whose dinner parties even the most acrimonious issues could be resolved peacefully. She strategically placed adversaries across from or adjacent to each other, knowing that conversation over dinner, cigars and brandy would be more productive than hotheaded exchanges in the halls of Congress. She is regarded by historians to be the model for all future first ladies...a true partner in the White House.

Our tour of the Madisons' home, Montpelier (pic 1), was very special, having only been opened to the public just three years ago. A few years after James' death in 1836 (at the age of 85), Dolley was forced to sell the home because of debt. Her son had gambled away the family fortune, even selling off furniture and other heirlooms without her knowledge. The home eventually passed into the hands of the DuPont family, who made significant changes (in addition to those made by owners in the interim). The result was a home that barely resembled the original; 25,000 square feet had been added, entrances changed, walls moved, etc. The DuPonts sold it to the National Trust in the 1970s, and the efforts to restore the home to its Madison version have been a massive undertaking of years and millions of dollars. Historians have painstakingly sought and acquired many pieces of furniture that belonged to James and Dolley, and textile historians have painstakingly researched and acquired wall coverings, carpets and paint colors. The restored home is incredible, and it's still a work in progress. Only two of the dozen or so rooms have been completed; but some of our favorite parts were the unfinished, in which the extent of the restoration effort was visible.

Our day of history ended with a glimpse of my mom's personal history...having dinner with her first roommate at William & Mary. Kathleen and her husband have traveled the world in their work with the State department, and our evening together was full of interesting stories and fun reminiscences. Perhaps the best part was getting to play with their delightful and lovey dogs (pics 4-6). We're missing our pets so much, and these furry friends were a dose of good medicine for our hearts. It's hard to believe we'll see our own four-legged family members in just a couple of weeks!

Photos:
(2) On the roof terrace of Montpelier, looking west to what was western wildnerness in Madison's day.
(3) Kelsey and Kendall having a cozy moment with James and Dolley.
(7) Roomies: Kathleen and Nancy